Page 7
Semester 4: B.Sc. Textile and Fashion Designing
Finishing - Introduction, Objects, Importance and Classification
Finishing
Introduction
Finishing refers to the processes that textiles undergo after weaving or knitting to enhance their properties. This stage aims to improve aesthetic appeal, performance, and durability.
Objects of Finishing
The main objectives of finishing include improving appearance, increasing comfort, adding functionality such as water repellency or stain resistance, and ensuring dimensional stability.
Importance of Finishing
Finishing is crucial in the textile industry as it determines the final quality of the fabric. It can affect dyeing properties, texture, and overall consumer satisfaction.
Classification of Finishing
Finishing can be classified into several types, including mechanical, chemical, and thermal. Each category serves specific functions and uses unique techniques to modify textile properties.
Mechanical Finishing - Beetling, Shearing, Calendaring, Embossing, Moiering
Mechanical Finishing
Beetling is a mechanical finishing process that enhances the texture and surface quality of fabrics. It involves the use of beetling machines that apply a series of beatings to the fabric surface, resulting in a smooth and lustrous finish. Commonly used on cotton and linen fabrics, beetling increases the visual appeal and hand feel, making it more suitable for high-quality garments.
Shearing is a mechanical finishing technique used to cut off the surface fibers of a fabric to achieve a smooth, even finish. This process is crucial for fabrics like wool and synthetic fibers where a uniform surface appearance is desired. By shearing the fabric, any uneven pile or fluff is removed, resulting in a clean look and improved drape.
Calendaring is a finishing process that involves passing the fabric through pairs of rollers at high pressure and temperature. This technique flattens and smooths the fabric, producing a glossy finish. Calendaring is commonly applied to cotton, polyester, and blends, and it can also enhance the fabric's glossiness, thickness, and overall appearance.
Embossing is a decorative finishing process that creates a raised or three-dimensional pattern on the fabric surface. This is achieved by applying heat and pressure, often using engraved rollers. Embossing adds texture and visual interest to textiles, making it popular for upholstery, fashion, and home decor fabrics.
Moiering is a specialized mechanical finishing process primarily used in the wool industry. It involves the treatment of wool fabrics to enhance their texture, softness, and handle. This process not only improves fabric quality but also helps to meet specific performance criteria for clothing and upholstery.
Functional Finishing - Resin, Waterproof, Flame Retardant, Soil release and adhesives
Functional Finishing - Resin, Waterproof, Flame Retardant, Soil Release, and Adhesives
Resin Finishing
Resin finishing involves the application of thermosetting resins to textile materials to enhance their performance. Resins can impart stiffness, improve durability, and enhance dimensional stability. Common applications include shirts and trousers where a crisp finish is desired. Cationic resins, melamine resins, and urea-formaldehyde resins are widely used in this process.
Waterproof Finishing
Waterproof finishing is designed to prevent water penetration while maintaining breathability. Techniques include the application of waterproof membranes, coatings, or treatments such as DWR (Durable Water Repellent). This finishing is essential for outdoor fabrics used in jackets, tents, and sportswear to provide protection against wet conditions.
Flame Retardant Finishing
Flame retardant finishing enhances the fire-resistance of textiles. This process can involve the application of chemical treatments or the use of inherently flame-resistant fibers. Common applications include workwear, uniforms, and home furnishings. There are various standards for testing flame resistance, emphasizing the importance of safety in public spaces.
Soil Release Finishing
Soil release finishing improves the ability of a fabric to shed dirt and stains during laundering. This is often achieved through chemical treatment that alters the surface characteristics of the textile fibers. Applications are prevalent in uniforms, bed linens, and other fabrics that encounter high soil levels. Effective soil release finishes help maintain the appearance and prolong the life of textile products.
Adhesives in Textile Finishing
Adhesives are an integral part of textile finishing, used for bonding various materials and enhancing functionality. Common types include thermoplastic, epoxy, and water-based adhesives. They are critical in processes such as lamination, coating, and assembling multi-layer fabrics. Adhesives contribute to the overall performance and durability of finished textile products.
Advanced Finishes - Softening, Denim, Anti-pilling, Stone wash, Antimildew
Advanced Finishes - Softening, Denim, Anti-pilling, Stone wash, Antimildew
Softening Finishes
Softening finishes are applied to fabrics to enhance their hand feel and drapability. Common methods include the application of softening agents such as silicone and waxes. These finishes help in reducing harshness, promoting a more comfortable feel against the skin, and improving wrinkle resistance.
Denim Finishing
Denim finishing involves specific treatments to create desired aesthetics and functionality in denim fabrics. Techniques such as enzyme washing, stone washing, and tinting contribute to the characteristic faded look and soft texture, increasing the appeal of denim garments.
Anti-pilling Finishes
Anti-pilling finishes are crucial in maintaining the appearance and longevity of fabrics, especially knitted and woven textiles. The finish reduces the tendency of fibers to pill, leading to a cleaner look over time. Techniques may include chemical treatments or utilizing modified fibers.
Stone Wash Finishing
Stone washing is an abrasive wash technique that softens denim and creates a worn look. Stones, often pumice, are used in the wash process, which abrades the surface of the fibers and allows for color fading. This method also aids in the removal of excess dyes.
Antimildew Treatments
Antimildew finishes are applied to textiles to prevent the growth of mildew and mold. These treatments are especially important in humid environments. Common methods include the use of biocides or incorporating antimicrobial agents into the fabric during the finishing process.
Special Finishes - Breathable finish, Bio-polishing, Protective finishes, Deodorizing
Special Finishes
Breathable Finish
Breathable finishes are applied to textiles to enhance air permeability while maintaining moisture-wicking properties. This type of finish is essential in sportswear and outdoor gear, allowing sweat to escape while preventing water from entering. Techniques such as micro-porous coatings help achieve this balance, facilitating comfort in various climatic conditions.
Bio-polishing
Bio-polishing is a process that uses enzymes to remove protruding fibers from the surface of textiles. This results in a smoother fabric finish, improves aesthetic appeal, and enhances the softness of the textile. It is commonly used in cotton and cotton-blend fabrics, providing a more refined look and feel while also reducing pilling.
Protective Finishes
Protective finishes are designed to provide textiles with resistance to various environmental factors such as water, stains, and UV radiation. Common techniques include the application of fluorocarbon finishes, which create a hydrophobic surface. These finishes are particularly valuable in outdoor fabrics and uniforms, contributing to durability and longevity.
Deodorizing Finishes
Deodorizing finishes incorporate antimicrobial agents or odor-absorbing substances into the textile fibers. This helps to neutralize odors caused by bacteria and sweat. Such finishes are increasingly sought after in athletic wear and undergarments, enhancing freshness and comfort for the wearer. Techniques include using silver ions or activated carbon in the finishing process.
